It appears our northern brothers are having some issues with access at one of their newer crags.

The QLD EPA has fined some of the developers and ordered the removal of all bolts at the flinders cave climbing area that was principally developed last year. Obviously this could set a worrying precedent in QLD and other parts of Australia. The climbers in question plan to challenge the fine and ruling and have set up a new group unite climbers against this type of cliff closure. They are asking climbers to support this group by signing up. I urge you to take a look at their site (which also has the full background to the proceedings) and support them in their fight against the closure. The website is here:

www.queenslandclimbersalliance.org

Failure may well have been the motivation for me to tick my Project at Gello this morning. I am very pleased. It went relatively painlessly 2nd shot. i bolted it over a year ago and orginally dismissed it as no good and to hard. Thankfully a fresh set of Tips and some help with a bit of Beta off Jesse and Willis one barmy spring afternoon last year help me to realise that it was a worthy project. Its probably the hardest First Ascent for me to date which has been a great challenge. As KP says rearding not falling off a route:

“the fear of failure outweighs the fear of falling”

I think i get what he means????

I managed to fall off an 18m project of mine on the second last hold on the weekend. Isn’t that a fun experience. The final hold is a flat undercling above your head that you push up into then reach up to a sloper to clip the anchors off. On its own its not a particularly hard move but when you’re a bit pumped it’s a killer for me. It comes after doing the crux moves at about half height of the route and then a grade 23/24 head wall to reach it.

I seem to have a habit of falling of routes above traditional ‘cruxes’ and very close to anchors. It can be very frustrating experience but quite often it motivates me more to actually do a bit of training and work on my weaknesses.

Interestingly before I set off on this particular attempt I was very nervous as well. To the point I was actually shaking a little nad had to focus my breathing to calm down. This hasn’t really happened to me before on a sport route and i think it may have been a little performance anxiety? Weird.

Either way the route certainly has me hooked (as if it didn’t already before now) and my motivation to do it is very high. I know I can do the route. Ive just got to hold on for one more move, although there is still one more hold on the route I havn’t yet fallen off….

here is a pretty bad pic of me starting the crux sequence

This is partly inspired by a late night rambling post I read on a forum recently.

One of the most memorable moves you can do on a route is to nail a nice big dynamic move. Sure you can add one of these moves to plenty of routes but there are some routes that cannot be solved realistically without a nice dyno or solid deadpoint. So for those of you climbing around Sydney who enjoy climbing dynamically here are a few routes that you can employ your skills on (note for the purists if you like onsighting the following list could be construed as beta. :) ). Im sure there are plenty of harder routes that have dynos on them as well but i am yet to sample those

..The Body Shop	21	Blue Bell	More a large dead point than a dyno but it gets a Guernsey as one of the easier routes around that requires some dynamics
Killer Boas	22	Thompsons Point	This route can certainly be solved without dead pointing but where is the fun in that
Ladder of Death	22	Berowra	this route is the first route I did that had a good dyno on it. The great thing is its close to the ground so you can try it over and over again
No Name	23	South Central	What a hidden Gem! A nice hefty dyno from good holds to good holds
Bitch’n	23	Blue Bell	The dynamic move on this route also features in 3 or 4 link ups on this wall
There Goes the Neighbourhood	24	South Central	I don’t actually dyno this one but I have seen a lot of people with less reach resort to one
Dial a Dyno	24	Bowens Creek	I think the name says it
Junket Pumper	24	Centennial Glen	A dead point really but its certainly a dynamic move for most people who tick it as a first 24
Apraxia	25	Centennial Glen	This route is made by its round the world driveby dyno. Unfortunately in later years a crimpy static variant has been popularised
Shark Pool	25	Logan Brae	Im yet to do this one yet but KP assures me it’s all class
Church of Christ	26	PC	What a finish to a spectacular route!
Better than Nothing	27	Centennial Glen	Surely this route was manufactured by the dynoing gods? Certainly a unique route

Feel free to dispute this list or add to it.

It had been about 3 months since id been out climbing properly due to lack of motivation caused by the summer humidity and the rainfall we have had in Sydney for the last three months. Anyhow I finally got back out on the Easter weekend and started the slow haul back to some form of climbing fitness.

After initially planning on climbing at Mt Alexandra we (KP, my two eldest boys Stew and Jake and me) changed our plans in the persistent drizzle and headed to Nowra. We decided we would check out the Lair as it had a lot of moderate climbs that would help get some mileage up. At the crag we met up with Bundy and Teacher who, with plastic man, had gathered a big clan of merry crankers for a day ‘on the tick’.

The lair is situated past HMAS Albatross and has about 40 routes from grade 10 to 24 at present. The best quality routes lie in the 21-24 bracket and are situated around the members area wall. The crag was originally develop by a group of people including the guide book editor Gavin Lyon. After the crag was made public in 2005 Graham Hill found his way there and quickly put up a swag of routes on the oddly overlooked right side of the members area.

We warmed up on Bingo Wings 18and Beat the Drum 17which were both pleasant slightly slabby routes on Berlin Wall. KP decided that Graham Hills sandbagging days were over and jumped on his route 6” Release 21 also on Berlin Wall. After navigating through a powerful start sequence he thought he had it in the bag. Unfortunately a single crystal on the final slab was to much for this cranker and he had to beat a hasty retreat. Graham Hills reputation remains intact.

The next routes we climbed were Bakery Treat 21 and its later day neighbour Graba Granny 21. Both these routes offer great climbing on the main wall of the members area with the later requiring me to have a second shot after an unconvincing flash attempt.

Bundy on the start of Cheeky Possum 21 with the members area wall continuing in the back ground. Photo©: Shaun Martin

With the day rapidly slipping away KP decided that the proudest section of the cliff was worthy of his attention and jumped on Kill it and Grill it 22!!. This route requires a batman start then climbs up into a scoop feature before undergoing a decent run out and up a punchy headwall. The initial moves into the scoop are awesome and the scoop itself is fairly punchy. This feisty 22 took KP 3 shots and I had to resign myself to dogging it. It seems Graham Hill got the better of us again but it’s a great route.

By this time Jake and Stew were both hungry and Tired and very vocal about both so we packed our gear and took off. Wasn’t a big day by any means but a worthwhile one. It looks like ive got a fair bit of work to do if im going to be able to tick any of the projects i bolted last year!

Id recommend the Lair to anyone wanting a day away from the regular Nowra crags as the place has a number of routes that are really worthwhile.

Get the Lair Guide from the ACA website HERE

Josef Goding has just got back from a trip to the bungles which included some rebolting work on some of the aging anchors found out there. Climbing Anchors contributed some gear for this work. The routes he upgraded anchors on are as follows ):

Crater Bluff

• Top of Green Glacier
  2 x Fixe hangers with 2 captive rings,
  2 x M10 bolts,
  2 x Ramset hammer capsules,

Cost - $44

• Middle Rap Station
  2×10mm Maillions,
  1×250mm Stainless Steel Chain,

Cost - $19.5

• Lower Rap Station
  2×500mm 10mm Stainless Steel Chain,
  1 x Bolt hanger,
  2×10mm Maillion,
  2 x Stainless Steel Shackle,

Cost - $59

Belougery Spire

• Rap in Steep Gully
  1 x M10 Bolt,
  1 x Ramset Hammer Capsule,
  1 x Stainless Steel Twisted shackle,
  2×10mm Maillion,
  1×250mm Stainless Steel Chain,

Cost - $34

Total Cost of this Work – $156.50

We have embedded the Google Maps crag map of NSW into the Climbing Anchors Website so it can be viewed here. check it out and feel free to blast us if we got something wrong.

As you may (or may not) be aware we put aside money each year towards rebolting. We have also received a number of donations towards rebolting. Currently we have several hundred dollars available for rebolting work or anchor renewal. If you are involved in rebolting work or know someone that is get them to contact us. The money will be used to supply equipment (bolts, hangers, glue etc) for rebolting projects.

Also the Sydney Rockclimbing Club have a rebolting fund. Information on it can be found here.

This was posted on the ACA Website and is definitely worth reading if you place bolts or are thinking of placing bolts:

“Ever wondered who is responsbile if a bolt fails? The climber, the land owner or the bolter? Gordon Brysland has provided some answers.

As part of the Access Forum at the Climbing Festival Gordon Brysland gave a presentation on legal principles relevant to climbing. Unfortunately, Garth Miller was a bigger drawcard, and many people missed this important talk. Thankfully, Gordon prepared a brief document addressing issuses around bolting and access.”

The Article

Although this is still a work in progress i thought id post it up in the hope of getting some feedback on it. Ive put together a my maps page on Google maps to show all the crags in NSW. some have photos linked and most have basic information about the crag and a link to any online guide that is available. Please let me know if ive got any wrong etc and ill change them or if you can add some more in google earth and sedn them to me even better.

Tha maps page is found here:
NSW Crag Maps
or down load the Google earth File here:
Google Earth NSW Crag Maps File

The gang from the central coast have been visiting eagle rock for years and slowely developing it scenic and varied climbing. They have put up many iconic routes including Sea Monkey 23, Squeeze the Squid 26, and Daddy Cool Crack 27, but have always had their eye on a horizontal crack running through ‘the crack house’. Jman had been working this route with increased vigour over the past few months after JC (A New Zealander ring in now living in the blueys :)) had shown the route some attention. JC’s efforts were reward with his Ascent of ‘licking Wounds’ on thursday at a grade of 30. This route is surely one of the hardest trad routes in NSW and is a mighty Effort. Congratulatons JC!

Here is the Low down directly from Jason:

“On Friday J.C. Got the FFA of Licking Wounds 29/30.

Conditions started out terrible slippery and we were both falling off the starting moves. Then the wind picked up J.C. had a quick Power Nap. Then got up a sent the sawring unclimbed 15m Roof crack.

It was day 2, J. C and I camped out there over night. The rest of the crew had left the previous day after sending Squeeze the Suid 26/27. Justin Jefferson 3rd ascent, Richy Sonnerdale 4th ascent. After J. C. Attained the 2nd ascent of Squeeze the Squid he progressively moved onto another inspiring line. A Unique splitter roof crack. We had been trying the crack for quite a while now 5/6 months of going shot for shot. We would often Rock Paper or Scissor for the first lead and putting the gear into the crack.

Anthony Alexander and myself had been playing on it since 2000. We throw ourselves at it and always came back bruised and bleeding. Hense the named Licking Wounds. We both let this unclimbed line slide until we more skilled for tougher challengers.

After disperseing the Daddy Cool Crack 27 I thought it was time start working on the line of lines. And rounded up a posse to start working this stella line again.

Section by section the moves came together. Each of us finding new sequences and feedingof each others energy and enthusiasm for pain.

And there is still a 1m section of the roof climb that I can not free.
J. C. is the only person I have seen do the moves about 1 month ago. Since then its been a matter of trying to link the moves together.

The 1st crux is a technical thin seems on 45 deg angle. Shallow fingers to a half discent rest. 2nd crux move consists of small rail pinch on a horizontal roof. Foot holds a small 10 cent sized pebbles. From the pinch he throws for a 3 finger 1st pad size crimp. Locks his left arm on this then throws into a bad hand jam. Struggling to keep feet on then shoots for the next hand jam. On the send J. C. only manage to stick the 2nd jam before the 1st slipped out leaving J. C. hanging by 1 arm in a dubious jam. Quickly regaining his feet and placeing his right hand back into the start of the good part of the crack. The next few metres of climbing were the slowest I had ever seen him climb it. Not wanting to slipp out. He moved feet first towards the head wall. Spun around to pull up on a fair left hand jam to a not so good finger lock on the head wall. Then he brought both knees onto the wall. With his feet dangling down. He looked like he was on a invisible toilet seat. It was really surreal.

For years we had been waiting for somone to climb this beautiful looking line and there I was on Belay looking at a pair of feet dangling just below the lip. ” Don’t fall of now J. C. Keep it together man.” Was my supportive bewildered war cry.

As always the Kiwi always keeps himself composed. And bringing his feet onto the head wall clipping the doggey cam on the way past. Moving out of site he gets closer to making history and topping out to saftey. But with all crack climbing one problem is that the rope can get caught in the crack and get stuck as it did on this occasion. Keeping it together J. C. feeling comfortable enough unties the rope from himself and solos the last little bit to the top. Calling on the estatic belayer to bring a rope arround so he could retreeve and clean the gear from the crack so he can have a go a placing the gear on lead. Now thats pure ethics.

In my oppion that was the first free ascent. The rope was not used in any way to assist the climber to get up the rock. Haveing the trad gear preplaced is simular to sport climbing but lacks the ground up approach use by mountaineering hard man. It was a memorable day that Im still trying to fit into my reality. Wow! It went free. Gee. It only needed some strong short arss light Kiwi with the right minerals and persistance to brake the code and find a way. Im still trying to figure out a tall mans sequence. Its not always benifitial being taller in the world of rock climbing. I may just have to suck it up and pull the short mans sequence and deal with my Knees around my ear lobes.

I hope this gives you a little run down dude,

Cheers.
Jason Piper”

Wanna see some pics? check out this set from JJ on Flickr.

Rod Wills who runs Crag X has released details of a crag he and a host of others have been developing at Mount Kur-ring-gai in Sydney’s North. The guide is available on our Climbing Guides page and is home to about 85! new routes from grade 10 – 23.

The crag is situated a great bush setting with views over berowra creek. The majority of the routes are sport routes but there are some trad lines available. The rock quality is variable but in places is as good as it gets around sydney.

Wow. What an awesome festival that was. I hope everyone enjoyed it. Congratulations to the organisers for a great event.

If you came along to the bolting seminar (or even if you didn’t) you may recall the talk surrounding the British Mountaineering Councils bolting document. It is extremelly conprehensive and covers information regarding litigation and the bolters liability.

This interesting and useful document is still in draft form it would seem but is available from The BMC Website. Its well worth a read for anyone placing bolts or thinking about placing bolts.

According to the forum on the Tasmanian climbing website The Sarvo Simon Parsons has completed one of the most compelling projects in Tasmania – linking and straightening out the two pitches of Pleasant Screams (on Mount Wellington’ Organ Pipes) The completed climb goes at 29.

You can read the original forum post here or read below.

According to Simon:

Pleasant Screams Direct 29 50m by Simon Parsons, 18/03/07

The original Pleasant Screams by Sam Edwards was done as 2 pitches. The second pitch was done by first starting up After Midnight and stepping right to a 2 bolt hanging belay at 20m. On the second pitch, originally graded 26, at 2/3 height he moved right into Brown Madonna and made some moves up this before returning to the line.

The Direct version starts up the true first pitch (grade 25) and is a single mega pitch to the top.

There is a reasonable rest after the first pitch’s crux on a large foot hold and some hand jams about 2 bolts below the original hanging belay anchors. From here, once you cannot stand hanging around any longer, just keep to the line of bolts. No deviating out left towards After Midnight (tempting at the hard move to reach a crimper match at bolt 13 – this move is much harder for people < 6 feet tall). At bolt 17-18 the line comes close to Brown Madonna, but you must stay on the face and not move further right to jugs and rests in Brown Madonna.

This is the Serpentine of Tasmania and is truly amazing.

No move is harder than grade 27, but there are several very technical hard sections with side pull rests between and it is sooooo looong.

Cheers

Simon

Judging by comments made on qurank and theCrag.com the QLD'ers have been keeping themselves busy lately. According to posts in this thread on qurank the oft looked at summit cave of Mt Tibrogargan has undergone considerable development over the last 2 years. Quoting Gareth "There are 20 new pitches including 6 of 17-21, 5 of 22-24 and 9 of 25+ Many are multipitch. Some of the harder ones need some more repeats to confirm grades." By several accounts this is a significant development not least because of the logistics of the location but also becasue of the quality of the routes. The first routes to go through the cave proper were put up in the early 1980's so its great to see the vision has continued.

Another QLD crag to recieve renewed attention is Mt Coolum. Lee Cujes recently sent his project naming it Gasoline Rainbow and grading it grade 28. If the grade sticks it will be Queensland's 5th 28 making the achievement all the more exciting. A number of hard projects have been bolted as well as several other routes being sent. For more info check out the qurank thread.